2018 12.9″ iPad Pro First Impressions

IMG_7782

When I got my 1st generation 12.9” iPad Pro back in 2016, my overwhelming impression was of how large it was. Compared to the iPad Air 2 that I had previously, it seemed huge. With the new 12.9” iPad Pro, my first impression is how small it is. Some of this is coming from the old 12.9”, of course. I don’t know how someone coming from a 9.7 or 10.5” would feel. Compared to the old 12.9”, the new one is about an inch narrower (in landscape) and a quarter of an inch shorter. It feels quite a bit lighter as well; both because it is about an ounce lighter and because the smaller size means the center of gravity is closer to your hand when holding it in landscape. I was already fairly comfortable using my old iPad Pro handheld, but it’s noticeably easier with the new one.

I really like the design. The slim bezels seem like the natural design for the iPad. The squared off edges look nice and don’t create any issues when I’m holding it.

FaceID rocks! I know some people have had issues with it on the iPhone, but in my month using it on the iPhone XS, it’s worked very well for me. So far, the iPad has been similar. I’m still getting used to making sure I don’t cover the camera with my thumb, however. That will be a matter of training myself on where to hold it (yes, “You’re holding it wrong” is still a thing). It may just be setting up a new device and having to log in to a bunch of stuff, but I’m finding Face ID to get into 1Password almost as useful as Face ID to unlock the iPad.

I really like tap to wake too. If anything tapping the screen to wake up the device seems more natural on this than it does on the iPhone. Being able to double tap the smart keyboard to open great, though I’m not at the point where that’s second nature yet. As an aside, I’ve heard this describes as “double tap the spacebar”, but for me, it works with any two taps in succession (even two different keys). The first keypress wakes the iPad, allowing FaceID to do its thing. The second slides the lock screen out of the way.

Speaking of the keyboard, think the Smart Keyboard Folio is an improvement on the old Smart Keyboard. It’s considerably more stable than the older version. While most of my brief use so far has been on a desk or countertop, it does seem more “lappable” as well. I’m not finding the more vertical ”desk” angle very useful, however. Some of that may be due to my height (6’5”). If I were 6” shorter the more vertical position might be better for me (I know @macsparky complained some about the angle of the old Smart Keyboard, but I never found it to be a problem). As it stands, I think it’s going to live at the less steep “lap” angle (which is almost exactly the same as the old Smart Keyboard).

The typing experience is almost identical to the old one. If you liked the old model, you’ll like this one. If you didn’t like the old one, I doubt you’ll find this one any better. Personally, I liked the typing feel of the Smart Keyboard. While it’s not as good as a nice mechanical keyboard, I do think it’s the best keyboard Apple currently makes.

One minor affordance that I just read about today is that when you have the keyboard folded around to the back of the folio (“tablet mode” basically) it has some magnets to keep the keyboard part of the folio in place, rather than flopping around the way the old one did. I’ll still probably take it out of the folio most of the times that I’m not actively using the keyboard, but leaving the folio attached in tablet mode does seem like it will be less annoying than with the old one.

I haven’t really spent enough time with the Pencil to say much about it. The pairing and charging seem to work well. I tried the double tap gesture to get the eraser in Apple Notes and it is a lot easier than switching tools.

The last “accessory” is the new 18-watt power brick. It seems surprisingly big. Since the prongs don’t fold it’s actually a bit longer than Apple’s 29-watt MacBook Adorable power brick (smaller in the other dimensions though). Honestly, I don’t think I’ll be using this much. I’ve got a bunch of MOS bricks which have 2 USB-A ports in addition to USB-C, as well as one of the MacBook bricks. All have folding prongs, which are nicer in a bag and while the 18-watt brick is smaller, it’s not that much smaller. I know a lot of people were eager to get a more powerful iPad power brick from Apple, but I’m not that impressed.

Power brick aside, I’m very pleased with the hardware. On the other hand, the software experience was a bit rougher. I restored mine from an iTunes backup and it stalled right at the end of the initial sync process. I did a restart and it seems like all of my content got synced over.

Once I got past that obstacle, every single app stalled with the progress circle about 2/3 of the way around. Restarting did not fix this, so I ended up deleting apps and redownloading just the ones I really needed. Doing this has the potential to delete local data, but I was pretty confident that everything important was in the cloud, plus I’ve still got my iTunes backup (and until I send it in to the Apple Give Back program I could always pull data off of my old iPad too).

Partway through this process, the logjam broke and the rest of my apps started downloading. I figure there must have been a few apps that were gumming up the works and once I deleted those the rest were able to download. Since I was getting rid of so many apps that I hadn’t used in years (if ever) I went ahead and completed the process of winnowing out old apps, so some good did come of this frustrating experience.

My only other issue so far was not with the device, but with my AppleCare+ coverage. When I got the Proof of Coverage email from Apple it appeared to list two iPads, rather than one. One of the serial numbers matched my new device, but the other did not. It also said both were 1tb models when I had the 512gb version.

I wanted to make sure there wouldn’t be any issue with my AppleCare coverage if I have to use it, so I gave Apple a call. The first rep I called looked into it (using screen sharing to take a look at the email I received and the serial number of my iPad) and passed me on to a person from the AppleCare team. She did some research and was able to explain that the second “iPad” listed was actually my Apple Pencil. She couldn’t say why it listed my iPad as the 1tb model, but she assured me that it wouldn’t affect my coverage. The Proof of Coverage email is rather confusingly drafted, but the Apple support reps I talked to were very helpful.

Despite the somewhat rough start on the software side, I’m very happy with my new iPad Pro so far (for the all of five hours that I’ve had it). I want to spend more time with the Apple Pencil, using it for notetaking and other tasks. I’m also planning on trying some stuff to put the A12X through its paces (probably some video editing in LumaFusion). We’ll see how long the honeymoon lasts.

Omni Focus Field Guide, Third Edition Review

I have long been a fan of David Sparks’ MacSparky Field Guides. These originally started out as a series of Apple iBooks that used the unique characteristics of the iBooks format to combine text and screencasts to cover technical topics like Paperless workflows, Presentations, and, most recently, the iPhone. The iBooks Field Guides were brimming with content, often pushing up against the 2-gigabyte maximum size for the format. Along the way, David also started making Video Field Guides, which were shorter, video-only products covering topics like Hazel, Photos, and OmniFocus.

Recently, David announced that given the uncertainty about Apple’s commitment to the format, he wouldn’t be putting out any more of the iBooks Field Guides. Instead, he set up a website at learn.macsparky.com to host video courses. While this was initially populated with streaming versions of the existing Video Field Guides, he quickly added two new ones: the Siri Shortcuts Field Guide and the OmniFocus Field Guide, Third Edition. While these share the all-video format of the Video Field Guides, in spirit they’re much closer to his iBooks Field Guides. They’re truly massive, with over three hours of content in the Shortcuts Field Guide and more than five hours in the OmniFocus Field Guide.

The OmniFocus Field Guide, Third Edition is an all-new product, covering OmniFocus 3 for both iOS and Mac. As you might guess from the length, it’s very comprehensive. That said, it does not feel at all padded out. Instead, it has a clear progression from simple content for users who are new to OmniFocus, ramping up to power user features and in-depth discussion of how to set up a system in OmniFocus most effectively to get your work done.

I’m a long-time user of OmniFocus 2 (and OmniFocus 1 before that), so I’m more on the power user end of the spectrum. However, I’m also just now making my transition from OF2 to the new OF3. I held off on OmniFocus 3 for iOS until the Mac version also became available. It was released last Monday, as was this Field Guide, so it came along just at the right time for me.

David starts with the basics, installing the software, setting it up, and walking through the various areas of the user interface. Throughout the course, he gives fairly equal weight to the iOS and macOS version of OmniFocus 3. If there is a bias, it’s not leaning towards one OS or the other, but that within iOS he tends to spend a lot more time demonstrating the iPad version than the iPhone version.

He doesn’t just confine himself to telling you how to twiddle the buttons, however. As he steps through how to capture and process tasks he’s also introducing the fundamental concepts that drive OmniFocus (and doing a bit of an introduction to the Getting Things Done system that OmniFocus was originally designed to implement).

There’s quite a bit of content on Tags (about 45 minutes by my count). These are a new feature in version 3 of OmniFocus and David spends quite a bit of time talking about how to use them effectively. Making the transition to tagging tasks and projects is going to be the biggest change for me moving from OF 2 to OF 3, so I appreciate the comprehensiveness of his coverage.

He also spends a lot of time talking about various perspectives. Perspectives are a tool that allows you to slice and dice your project and task list using various criteria to pull out specific tasks. They’ve only gotten more powerful and flexible with the addition of tags in OmniFocus 3. This is an aspect of OmniFocus that I know I haven’t been using to its full potential, so I was happy to see it covered in depth. One area David is clearly opinionated about is the benefits of custom perspectives available in the Pro version of OmniFocus. While he talks about how to make good use of the built-in perspectives in the standard version, you can tell his heart is really with the custom perspectives of the Pro version.

One area I thought could have used a bit more depth is review. David goes through the mechanics of reviewing projects and talks about how he customizes the review intervals to suit the needs of different projects. He also talks a bit about “meta-reviews” where he goes through at a higher level and thinks about his system and workload as a whole. Despite this, I do think the course could have gotten further beyond the mechanics of the project reviews to a more in-depth discussion of what you should think about when reviewing a project.

As befits one of the hosts of the Automators podcast, David spends quite a bit of time talking about how to automate OmniFocus. He starts out with very simple automation using tools like Text Expander, or even just copying and pasting templates from a text editor, all the way up to much more complex automations using the Shortcuts app on iOS.

Unlike some other task managers, OmniFocus is not a very opinionated piece of software. While it started as a very traditional GTD app, it’s always been very customizable and amenable to being used in a variety of ways. If anything it’s gotten even less opinionated in version 3, as tags enable even more flexibility (and allow you to get even further from traditional GTD methodologies). This lends a bit of a “do it yourself” vibe to OmniFocus. In some ways, it’s a toolkit for building a task management system rather than a fully-fledged task management system itself.

David embraces this aspect of the software by discussing six different task management systems you could set up OmniFocus to implement. He covers a system built around defer dates, one based on flagging tasks, and one that leans heavily on the new tagging features. He also talks about using OmniFocus 3’s enhanced forecast perspective as the center of your task management (though this is less of a full-fledged system than a technique that could be applied to defer date, flag, or tag based systems). He also briefly covers a system built around higher level tasks (as opposed to the concrete “next actions” of classic GTD). Finally, David talks about his own system, which leans heavily on tags, but also blends in elements of flags and defer dates.

Not just in this section, but throughout the Field Guide, David talks about various ways of using OmniFocus, even if they’re not how he personally uses the software. He clearly has some opinions about the best way to use it, but he realizes that what works best for him won’t necessarily be best for everyone. He does an excellent job of laying out the pros and cons of various strategies.

As with many of the Field Guides, if you’re looking for a laugh, it pays to keep an eye on the example tasks and projects David is using. His OmniFocus database seems to indicate that David is some sort of mad scientist.

If there’s a unifying theme in this field guide, it’s “The Manager and the Maker.” This is the idea that OmniFocus can be the manifestation of our inner manager, organizing what we have to do and getting it out of our way quickly so that we can do creative work, letting out our inner “maker.” Some folks don’t think that OmniFocus or GTD really work for creative pursuits; that they’re just meant for salesmen and CEOs. David seems to have a bit of a chip on his shoulder about this. He uses OmniFocus to manage the creative work of his MacSparky empire, including articles, blog posts, and this very field guide and he makes clear that he thinks OmniFocus is very useful for creative work.

The OmniFocus Field Guide, 3rd Edition is a great resource. I think anyone looking to get started with OmniFocus or get better at it is going to get a ton out of it, whether they’re a new user or a power user. I know that I’ll be totally redoing my system to take advantage of OmniFocus 3’s new tagging features and a bunch of other strategies that I learned from this course (I’ve got an article on my new system brewing too). The productivity benefits of a smoothly functioning task management system and the complexity of my job (and life) make both the Field Guide and the OmniFocus software a real no-brainer. If you’re finding that the complexity and volume of your tasks mean things are falling through the cracks or taking a lot of time to manage, you should check out OmniFocus and the Field Guide.

The Multipad Lifestyle

David Sparks is a bad influence. The idea of having multiple iPads first got into my brain listening to Mac Power Users #317 when he confessed to Katie Floyd that he had bought a 9.7” iPad Pro to go with his 12.7” one.1

My path to multiple iPads was a little different. For many years I ran 9.7” iPads. Originally, of course, 9.7” was the only choice. I was never really tempted by the iPad mini, not so much because of screen size, but because my iPads tended to spend a lot of their time connected to external keyboard cases. While some manufacturers make keyboards sized to the mini, they’re really too small for effective touch typing (even 9.7” sized keyboards are on the cramped side).

The iPad Pro

When the original 12.9” iPad Pro came out, I thought it was interesting, but not something I’d really be interested in. It was so big, and I had a fairly new iPad Air 2 that I still really liked. Then my Air 2 was stolen and I had to figure out what to replace it with. After quite a bit of debate I ended up getting a 12.9” iPad Pro.2

I really do like the big iPad Pro. The big screen is great, especially for watching video and it does split view multitasking much better than the smaller iPads. The Apple Pencil has been useful, but not anywhere near as big a deal for me as it has for some other folks. I use it mostly for occasionally marking up PDFs rather than drawing.

For me, though, the real killer feature is the Smart Keyboard. As I mentioned, I’ve run external keyboard cases3 with my iPads almost from the very beginning. While I’ve found them much better than the onscreen keyboard, cases sized for 9.7” iPads have always been a little cramped to type on. The larger size of the 12.9” is finally enough to fit a real, full sized keyboard layout. The magnetic connection makes it much easier to get the keyboard on and off the device, so I can easily swap back and forth between typing and just using the iPad without the keyboard to watch video or browse the web. The Smart Connector is a big advance over Bluetooth in that the keyboard is always on. With Bluetooth keyboards if you haven’t typed anything in a while you have to wake the keyboard up before typing.

While I have not gone nearly as far down the route of making the iPad my primary machine as folks like Fraser Speirs or Federico Viticci, the 12.9” Pro has allowed me to go further in this direction than I previously thought. These days I don’t usually take my MacBook Pro with me when I travel unless I think I’ll have a particular need for it.

As much as I love the 12.9” iPad Pro, there have been some disadvantages to it. When I had a 9.7” iPad, it was pretty much my constant companion. With the help of a Tom Bihn Ristretto4 I had it with me almost all the time. I don’t carry the 12.9” around nearly as much. The extra size and weight make it easier to just leave it and only bring my phone. It’s not really a “take everywhere” device for me the way the 9.7” was.

The big iPad is also sometimes awkward around the house. It’s great for working at a desk or table, or sitting on the couch watching a video, but it’s big enough to be a bit awkward to hold in one hand and tap or type with the other.

Thinking about a smaller iPad

Initially, these disadvantages had me thinking about getting a larger iPhone. Ever since the iPhone line split into the regular and plus sizes, I had stayed with the smaller phone. Since my phone was effectively taking on some of the roles that the 9.7” iPad had filled for me, it had me considering whether an iPhone 7+ would make sense. In the end, though, I just couldn’t do it. The bigger phone just wouldn’t fit in some of the places where I keep my phone, and it’s not really friendly to one handed operation.

Eventually, I came round to the idea that the only way I could fill the gap left by the 9.7” iPad was another iPad. Unlike David, however, my solution to this was not a 9.7” Pro, but a iPad mini. I thought the mini would nicely split the difference between the big Pro and my iPhone.

I’d been thinking about going this route for quite a while, but part of the reason I decided to jump on it was the signs that the iPad mini might be on the way out. Apple recently dropped all of the mini models except the 128gb size, as well as undercutting it price-wise with the new $329 iPad. If I wanted the new one, this might be the time to do it.5

While buying a second iPad is pretty much the definition of a splurge, I did economize in a couple of ways. This is my first iPad without cellular data. I relying on wifi and tethering to my iPhone for this one. I also went with just a 32gb model, which is the smallest amount of storage I’ve ever had in an iPad. I figure that the big iPad Pro is going to remain my primary platform for watching video and I don’t sync my music library to any of my iPads, so all I really need is enough space for apps. While Apple isn’t selling the 32gb iPad mini any more, it was still available from other sellers. I found a good deal on one from Walmart. It had evidently been sitting on the shelf for a while, since it came out of the box with iOS 10.0, rather than the then-current 10.3.1.

The iPad mini

This was the first time in a long, long while that I’ve set up an iOS device from scratch. Usually, when I get a new iPad or iPhone I just restore from my old device’s iCloud backup. Thinking about it the last iOS device I set up completely from scratch was probably the original iPad.

That said, cloud services make getting all my data on a new device pretty easy. Download the apps and set up iCloud, Dropbox, and a couple of app-specific syncing services (like OmniPresence).

There are some aspects of the smaller iPad that take some getting used to. The touch targets are all a bit smaller, for instance.

The keyboard is really way too small for touch typing. I find myself doing a lot more hunt and peck, often with the mini in my right hand and typing with my left. Holding the device vertically in both hands and typing with both thumbs is probably the fastest way to enter a non-trivial amount of text. When I’m using the mini I also find myself missing the number key row from the iPad Pro onscreen keyboard (though the flick keyboard in iOS 11 may mitigate that). The mini clearly isn’t going to be a machine for serious typing, compared to the iPad Pro or a Mac.

I use Split View quite a bit on my iPad Pro, but it definitely isn’t as useful on the mini’s smaller screen. I find myself using Slide Over when I need to access data in a second app (I did this with 1Password quite a bit during the setup process when I needed to enter credentials in other apps).

So far I find myself using the iPad mini quite a bit as a secondary screen. It’s what I grab when I’m doing something else and want to look something up on the internet or check email. If I’m sitting down to concentrate on one task I’m more likely to use the big iPad (or the Mac).

Accessories

When I got the mini I did some hunting for a shoulder bag that really took advantage of the mini’s small size. Getting the smaller device in putting it in a bag sized for the 9.7” iPad seemed like a waste, so I really wanted something designed for the mini, but those are few and far between. I ended up getting a nice Waterfield Design iPad mini sleeve with a shoulder strap. This is about as minimalist as you can get (if anything I wish it had a bit more space for extra gear than the one very flat outside pocket that the sleeve sports). I’d link it, but it looks like Waterfield isn’t making the iPad mini sized one anymore.

The other piece of gear that I got for my iPad mini was a cheap folding stand. Frankly, these are not very high quality (though I haven’t broken one yet), but they are the lightest and most compact stand that I’ve been able to find. Everything else would be bulkier than the iPad mini itself. This little stand slips nicely into the flat pocket on the Waterfield case (though it doesn’t always want to stay there).

Was it worth it?

I haven’t ended up using the mini as often as I thought I would, in part because around the time I got the mini I cut down on how often I went out for lunch, which was one of the main times I figured I’d be using the mini. Still, I think it was worth it, even if it is clearly a secondary device for me.


  1. He’s not the only one, of course. I know other people are doing the same thing, notably Myke Hurley and CGP Grey. 
  2. A few months later the 9.7” iPad Pro came out. If it had been out at the time (or if I had known it was coming) I probably would have gone with the smaller size and never known how well the 12.9” Pro would work for me. 
  3. First Zagg, then Bridge
  4. An older model Ristretto specifically sized for a 9.7” iPad that they don’t make any more. 
  5. Before buying new, I did check Gazelle and some other sources for used models. I could only find 16gb or 128gb models, and even those only seemed to be available in the gold color (which I detest). 

Backup Strategy

When I got my new iMac, I took it as an opportunity to revisit my backup strategy. I’m pretty religious about having good backups and they’ve saved my bacon more than once.1

There are lots of different ways of backing up your data. You can use Apple’s Time Machine, clone your hard drive, subscribe to an online backup service, manually copy data to external drives, back up to network attached storage, and so on. Lots of people will extoll the virtues of one or more of these options. However, rather than starting with the backup techniques themselves, I find it more useful to start by thinking about the problem you’re trying to solve. Decide what threats to your data you are concerned about, then pick backup techniques that address those threats.

So, what threats am I trying to mitigate with my backup strategy?

Oh crap I shouldn’t have deleted that!

The most common threat to my data isn’t theft, or fire, or hardware failure; it’s Command+S. I’ll make a change to a document and save it, then realize that the change got rid of something I wanted to keep. Or I’ll delete a file and empty the trash before I realize that it was the wrong file. Either way my actions are more of a threat to my data than anything else.

The simple solution to this is Apple’s built-in Time Machine software. It lets me go back and resurrect old versions of my data before I mistakenly deleted something.

In the past I’ve run Time Machine over the network, either to an Apple Time Capsule or to a share on my Drobo 5N. Every so often, however, Time Machine reports that it needs to get rid of my old backup and start again. With my move to a desktop Mac I decided to switch over to using a directly attached hard drive for Time Machine. So far this has been working well, but I haven’t really used it long enough to tell whether it’s more reliable than doing it over the network.

Oh crap my hard drive just died!

After my own incompetence, the next most likely cause of data loss is some sort of hardware failure. Either the hard drive dies, or my whole computer fails. Time Machine can help with these sorts of situations but it’s not optimal. I would have to get a new drive (or a whole new computer), reinstall the OS and then restore my data.

A better solution is to clone my Mac’s hard drive to an external drive. This way if I have a hard drive failure I can get back to work right away by booting my Mac off the external clone drive and pick up right where I left off.

I use Carbon Copy Cloner to do this. CCC figures heavily in several parts of my backup strategy, and I think it’s a piece of software every Mac user should own.2 Every night CCC clones my iMac’s hard drive to a 1tb external drive. CCC will make this software a “bootable clone”, setting it up so I can boot directly from the cloned drive (unlike a Time Machine drive).

The one potential issue I have with my current setup is that the external drive I’m using is a spinning hard disk, so when I boot my Mac from the external drive it’s very slow compared to running off my nice fast internal SSD. I’m considering whether it’s worth buying an external SSD as my bootable backup instead.

While my most important files are on my iMac’s hard drive, I also want to make sure all the data on my Drobo network attached storage are backed up. I have CCC set up to clone the Drobo as well. Right now I’m actually using two separate clone drives, one for my iTunes library and one for other data. This is primarily because I outgrew both the original drive I was using for this and the larger drive I got to replace it. So now I’m using both the original drive and the replacement in combination. I use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone my Drobo to these drives on a weekly basis.

Oh crap my house just burned down!

While a house fire is the notional threat here, it’s really a stand-in for any disaster that takes out both my Mac and the various backups on external hard drives I have sitting in my office. It could be a fire, flood, tornado,3 or theft. The solution is to have some sort of off-site backup. For a long time the only way to do this was by physically carrying a backup hard drive somewhere else. This sort of thing is obviously a bit of a pain, so most folks didn’t do it very often (if at all). The advent of high speed internet connections and cheap cloud storage has created a much better solution: online backup.

There are various services out there, some that will store your data for you, others that will back your data up to your own cloud storage service, or even a computer at a different physical location. I use Backblaze, which provides unlimited cloud backup for a yearly, per-computer fee.

One limitation with Backblaze is that it will not back up network attached storage, only drives that are directly attached to your computer. This is where the clone backups of my Drobo come in. Because these cloned hard drives are directly attached to my iMac, Backblaze will back them up. This does mean that my backups of stuff off the Drobo will be up to a week out of date since I only run the Drobo clone job once a week, but the stuff on my Drobo doesn’t change that frequently.

One limitation with online backup is the 1tb per month bandwidth cap that my ISP has recently imposed. I ran into an issue that required restarting my Backblaze backup from scratch when I reformatted my Mac mini, and it will be several months until I have everything uploaded to Backblaze again.

Oh crap I’ve got ransomware!

The most recent threat to my data is ransomware, malicious software that infects computers and encrypts all your data so you can’t access it until you pay the person who coded the ransomware for the decryption key.

The problem with ransomware is, depending on how cleverly it’s written, it can potentially corrupt any backup that can be reached from your computer, including network attached storage, external hard drives, and even online backup. The solution is to have a backup that’s not attached to your computer.

The most recent addition to my backup strategy is a “rotating shelf backup”4. I have two large external hard drives and every week I’ll connect one of them to my iMac and clone the iMac hard drive and my Drobo 5N. Once the clone is done, I’ll disconnect the drive and put it on the shelf. The two drives alternate every other week. By using two drives, I ensure that even if I was hit by ransomware while doing the clone, I’ve still got a copy of my data on a drive that’s not connected to my Mac.

Oh crap I forgot that file when I reformatted my hard drive!

Most of these backup strategies are intended to make sure I have as recent a copy of my data as possible. However, there are times where I want to make sure I’ve got an old copy of my data. Whenever I decide to nuke and pave5 I’ll use CCC to back up the computer to a a disk image on my Drobo. This gives me a copy of my data that can hang around for months or years, long after my Time Machine, clone backup, and online backup have been written over with data from the newly formatted drive. This has saved my bacon a couple of times when I realize that there was an important file stored in some odd location that didn’t get copied over to the newly formatted hard drive. I’ll do the same thing when I get rid of one of my computers.

Do I really need to do all of this?

The truthful answer is probably not. This is a pretty heavily optimized backup strategy. Most of these techniques protect against multiple threats. If a hard drive dies you can recover from Time Machine or an online backup, for instance. A clone backup is easier to recover from, but it’s not the only way. You could protect against all of these threats with just Time Machine and a clone backup that you stash at a friend’s house. But that isn’t going to be as quick or seamless as having strategies optimized for each threat, nor does it provide as much redundancy.

I’m trying to have the best possible solution for each of these potential issues. This means when I do have a problem, I’ll be able to get back up and running with a minimum of fuss, but it’s more effort on the front end.

I would say that as an absolute minimum, you ought to have two different types of backup, one of which should be offsite. There’s nothing like suffering a hard drive failure and then finding out there’s a problem with your backup. As the saying goes, “two is one and one is none.” The easy button for most people is probably Time Machine and a service like Backblaze. Regardless, have a backup strategy and test it periodically.


  1. For instance when I unexpectedly needed to erase and reformat my Mac mini. 
  2. SuperDuper has a similar feature set, but I prefer Carbon Copy Cloner. 
  3. Here in Kansas anyway. Depending on where you live substitute in a hurricane, earthquake, wildfire, or whatever the local natural disaster is. 
  4. Does that make it a “lazy susan backup”? 
  5. Reformat my hard drive and set that computer up from scratch. 

Jarvis Bamboo Standing Desk

When I got my recently acquired iMac, I got a sit/stand desk to go with it. I spend a lot of time at my desk and while I knew it wouldn’t be cheap, it seemed like a good investment in my comfort and health.

I have used a standing desk in the past, at a former workplace. In that case, the desk was standing only.1 What I wanted was an adjustable sit/stand desk that I could switch back and forth.

0B8269AB-FD90-4A8F-8AD3-428EF1B4BE70

The desk I bought is a Jarvis Bamboo from fully.com, based on The Wirecutter’s recommendation. They offer the Jarvis Bamboo in a variety of sizes. I got the largest one to accommodate my three-monitor setup: 78”x30”. This is only slightly larger than my old desk and “printer stand”2 so despite the size I didn’t have to move much furniture to accommodate it.

6FB3EA88-D173-4AF2-8554-39D9FD372F2C

There are two options for the adjustable height, one that adjusts from 27.25” to 46.5” and an extended range version that goes from 24.5” to 50”. I’m 6’5”, so the extended range version was a must for me, but I think that even those who are not at one extreme or the other height wise should consider it. At 30” wide this desk would be too wide to fit through some doors, including the relatively narrow door to my office. Before I got the desk I was concerned that when it was time to move I would have to disassemble the desk to get it out. Once I got it, however, I realized that if I lower it all the way down it’s actually shorter than it is wide, so I could flip it on it’s side and get it out that way. So when considering how much height adjustability you need, take a look at how wide your office door is in addition to how tall you are.

One upgrade that was well worth the price is the programmable memory controller. Rather than having to stand there pushing the up button while the desk rises, then bumping it up and down until I hit the height I want, I can just program my sitting and standing heights and switch between them with a single button press. It can memorize up to four options, so you could have sitting and standing heights for two different people.

I bought a big, beefy Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) along with my new iMac, and I wanted to have that on the desk, rather than having a bunch of power cables going up and down every time I changed the desk height. I could have just put it on top of the desk, but fully.com offers CPU Holders that attach to the bottom of the desk surface and hold mini-tower PCs. The APC UPS that I bought is about the same size as a mini-tower, so I got one of the CPU holders and mounted it underneath the desk (the UPS is heavy enough to require their heavy duty CPU holder).

8ED6FAF6-A44A-4AF3-B6F6-92F0452A7FE3

I also picked up some cable trays and a neat swiveling pencil tray to hold pens and post-it notes, since I’m giving up my desk drawer.

One must-have with a standing desk is some sort of padded floor mat. When I was running a standing desk at work I just used a cheap one from Walmart, but fully.com offers an interesting option: the the Topo Anti-Fatigue Mat. It’s contoured with an angled lip around the edges and a bump in the middle to encourage you not to just stand there flat footed. They give a big discount for ordering it with a standing desk, so I picked one up. I think I like it so far, though I have almost tripped a couple of times when stepping back from the desk.

The Jarvis Bamboo comes disassembled in two heavy boxes; one for the desktop and one for the frame. Get someone to help you carry them if you can.

The desktop has holes pre-drilled for the legs and frame rails and those went in pretty easy. I should have pre-drilled some holes for the CPU holder and pencil tray, but I was afraid of overdrilling and coming out the desktop. It would have saved me several stripped screws. Other than that it went together pretty easy, with clear instructions. A power screwdriver with quite a bit of torque is definitely helpful. I had to hand tighten some of the frame screws, even with the pre-drilled holes.

I like my monitors fairly high for good ergonomics, whether I’m sitting or standing. Fully.com offers monitor arms with their desks, which would work with the VESA mounts in my two Dell monitors, but not my iMac.3 Instead I decided to go with a riser shelf like I had on my previous desk. I spent a ton of time looking for something pre-made, but there was nothing out there tall enough or wide enough. All the commercially available monitor risers are designed to raise the monitor a few inches, which is nowhere near enough for my height. I ended up getting a 2×12 at Home Depot and having them cut it to 60”, and attaching a set of legs from Ikea. This worked out rather nicely, and while unfinished lumber is a bit low rent it doesn’t clash with the bamboo desktop too badly.

890BDB70-A6A4-40CF-9636-62EF326CF5C9

Overall I’m very happy with the new desk. It does a great job with my three-monitor array and the big work surface is super useful (as long as I keep it clean and uncluttered). Being able to switch between sitting and standing lends a lot of variety and I certainly feel better after working at my desk for a long time. The new desk is so much nicer than my setup at work it’s inspired me to arrange to work from home one day a week.


  1. Really, it was just an Ikea end table on top of a regular desk as my keyboard and mouse surface with the monitor on top of the desk’s hutch, which put it at eye level for me. 
  2. Not actually used for my printer. That lives on an adjacent file cabinet. 
  3. Apple does sell a version of the iMac with a VESA mount, but that’s not what I’ve got. 

My Multi-Monitor Setup

I have always been interested in getting as much screen real estate as I can on my computers. In the early 2000s, when dual outputs on video cards1 were first becoming widely available I ran a pair of 19” CRT monitors and ever since my main machine has had at least two displays. My new iMac has given me the opportunity to create something pretty close to my ultimate setup.

The iMac can support one 5K external display or two 4K displays. I opted for the two 4K displays, both because that provides more screen real estate for less cost, and because it allows me to create a symmetrical arrangement (the iMac in the center with a secondary monitor on either side2).

4K displays are available in 21”, 24”, and 27” sizes. The 21” seemed like it would be a bit small for displaying two apps or webpages side by side, especially since the secondary monitors would be further from my eyes. I’ve read several places that stretching 4K over a 27” monitor doesn’t look as nice as the smaller displays. The sweet spot for 4K displays seems to be 24”.

I went with the Dell P2415Q, a 24” 4K display recommended by The Wirecutter and [Katie Floyd](katiefloyd.com/ P2415Q). It’s a nice monitor. The picture is very crisp, though the color and brightness can’t compare with the iMac’s built-in display. After playing around with the scaling in display preferences it does a good job showing two side-by-side apps, showing the full content in each app while not being too small to read comfortably. I’m very happy with them so far.

One of the keys to using a big multi-monitor setup like this is to be thoughtful about how you place your apps. Don’t just spread windows out willy-nilly. Each part of my desktop has a particular role.

The center screen is obviously where I do most of my work. It’s usually home to either one maximized app that fills the entire screen or two apps running side by side (often Reeder and Safari).

The right half of the left-hand monitor and the left half of the right-hand monitor are for my supporting apps. While I’m doing something on the center screen I might be using one of these positions to take notes in Bear, move cards around in Trello, or reference an email.

Several years ago I was running a pair of 24” monitors on my work machine I usually sat in front of the right-hand monitor and I often found that the left half of the left-hand monitor often ended up “out of sight, out of mind”. I didn’t want that to happen with this setup, so I try to be very thoughtful about what goes on either end of my desktop. I use the left half of the left-hand monitor and the right half of the right-hand monitor for apps that I want to be able to see at a glance, but don’t need to pay continuous attention to, like the Sonos controller app.

Multimonitor screenshot medium size

One important thing to note is that while different parts of my desktop fill different roles, apps aren’t necessary confined to a single role or position on my monitors. For instance, OmniFocus usually lives at the extreme right side of my desktop (the right side of the right-hand monitor) so I can glance over and see my task list. However, when I’m doing my weekly review OmniFocus takes center stage and moves over to my main monitor. Similarly, when I’m using Bear to take notes, it lives on the left side of the right-hand monitor with whatever I’m reading on the center display. When I’m using Bear to write or edit an article like this one I’ll move it over to the iMac (and often maximize it).

This sort of flexible approach means I need good tools for moving apps and arranging windows. I’ve used several different window managers over the years. My current favorite is Magnet. It’s just a quick key combination to move and size a window to cover the left or right half of the current monitor, maximize it to cover the whole display, or move it to the next monitor. I got a Magic Trackpad with this iMac, which has lead me to incorporate Better Touch Tool into my window management. I have it set up so a force press on the upper right or left corners of the trackpad will move the current window to the left or right monitor, respectively. A force press on the lower right or left corners moves the current window to that half of the current display. If I’m typing on the keyboard and need to move a window, I’ll use Magnet. If I’m using the trackpad, I’ll use Better Touch Tool.

Being able to have a ton of windows on the screen can be a huge productivity boost for some activities. For others it can be a huge distraction. To help combat the latter, I often use HazeOver. This app grays out everything on your screen(s) except for the current application. You can set how opaque you want this to be, all the way up to pitch black. I have it set to about 90%, which does a great job helping me concentrate on the task at hand when I need to.

Running a setup like this does have some implications for some of the OS’s built-in features. For many years I ran the dock on the side of my screen to save precious vertical screen real estate.3 With three widescreen monitors like this that would mean an awfully long trip to reach it, so I’m back to the default position at the bottom of my center display. Apple added the ability to jiggle your mouse back and forth to make the pointer expand so you could find it in El Capitan, but I never found the feature that useful until I had this much screen real estate to loose the cursor in.

I’m very happy with this three-monitor setup. The iMac display does most of the work, but the ability to have supporting apps to either side and apps I can glance at easily on the extreme ends is really nice, and helps with productivity.


  1. VGA and DVI! Talk about a blast from the past. 
  2. The true ultimate setup would be an iMac flanked by two 5K displays, something that will be possible with the iMac Pro, coming out later this year, albeit at tremendous cost (~$8000). 
  3. I still run the dock on the left side of my monitor on my laptop. 

Setting up a Mac

So far this year I’ve set up three different Macs: I had to “nuke and pave”1 both my MacBook Pro and Mac mini, and I bought a new iMac and set it up. Going through this three times has forced me to think about the best way to go about it.2

Circumstances

There are several circumstances where you might have to set up a Mac from scratch. You buy a new Mac and need to set it up (yay!), you have some sort of failure and need to rebuild the machine to fix it (boo!), or you decide to voluntarily do the nuke and pave to give yourself a fresh start or eliminate the sort of cruft that builds up over time.

If you’re setting up a new Mac you’ve probably still got your old Mac, with access to all your data so you can easily copy things over, see what you have installed, etc. If you’re voluntarily reformatting your Mac, you can do some preparation ahead of time to back up your data and do things like make lists of installed apps. If your Mac went down hard and you have to reformat to get it working again, you have to rely on your backups.3

As it happens, I have one example of each. I decided to do the nuke and pave on my MacBook Pro because reformatting the drive from scratch seemed to be the only way to delete a Boot Camp partition I wasn’t using anymore.4 My Mac mini had been suffering some glitches and finally got to a state where it wouldn’t even boot successfully. Finally, I got the new iMac and had to set it up.

There are ways of avoiding a lot of the setup work in all these circumstances. You can restore from backup or use Migration Assistant to move your apps and files to your new machine. However, I prefer to use these sorts of circumstances as an opportunity for a fresh start.

Reinstalling and setting up macOS

A new Mac comes with macOS already installed, of course, but if you’re rebuilding an existing machine you have to get the OS on there. The easiest way to do this is to boot into the recovery partition (hold down Command-R while your machine boots). Use Disk Utility to reformat the hard drive and then reinstall macOS on it.

Then it’s just a matter of going through the standard macOS setup process: creating a user account, entering your WiFi password, signing into iCloud etc. It will offer to transfer data from another machine, but when setting up from scratch I prefer to handle this myself so I only get the programs and data that I want.

One thing I always make sure to do during setup is to turn on FileVault disk encryption. This is a great security feature with no noticeable performance penalty on a modern Mac. The one place where you will notice it is if you turn it on later on a larger hard drive, as your machine goes through and encrypts all the data on the disk. Better to turn it on up front so that everything gets encrypted as soon as it’s loaded onto the machine.

 

Installing Apps

Once the OS is up and running, the next step is to load my apps. One of the big advantages of setting up from scratch is that it’s a chance to give some careful thought to which apps I want to install. There’s no need to install something had on my old machine, but didn’t really use, or only tried once. One strategy for this is to “install on demand”; to wait until you actually need an app before you install it. If I don’t need FinalCut for another six months, I can wait until then to put it on. The problem is this adds an extra layer of friction when I need to use an app for the first time on this machine. With a laptop, it’s also possible that I might be on a slow internet connection the first time I need to use an app. I prefer to install the apps I think I’ll need up front, but I’m not going to just blindly reinstall all the apps I had on my old machine. I’ll assess whether I really use an app and how likely I am to need it.

One thing worth thinking about is now just “what apps do I use?”, but “what apps do I need on this machine?” My Mac mini was running as a home server, handling backups, Plex, and Drobo. Since I had been having some trouble with it I deliberately installed only the bare minimum of apps for that role when I set it up again. No need to install apps like Pages or Ulysses when I’m never going to do any writing on this machine.

Priority Apps

Rather than just going in and starting to download stuff, I have a couple of priorities. Setting up a new computer will involve entering a lot of passwords, so I absolutely need 1Password. I got my copy form the App Store, so the first thing I’ll do is log in to the store and download 1Password (my iCloud password is one of the few I actually have memorized, so I can get into the App Store and into iCloud to sync my passwords).

Setting up a new Mac also involves lots of repetitive typing. I’m going to have to put my email address in a lot of different things to get this Mac up and running, so TextExpander is a must. I haven’t upgraded to their latest subscription based version yet, so I have to make sure to download the old version 4 (it’s still available, but it’s not very prominent on their website).

My TextExpander snippets are synced via Dropbox, so that’s my next stop. I’ve got a fairly big Dropbox folder, so the whole thing will take a while to sync. Rather than waiting on that, I use the selective sync settings to sync only the TextExpander folder at first, so it downloads right away. Once I have that, I’ll go back in and sync the rest of my stuff.

Finally, I am used to using window management software to the point where I find it painful to do without it (especially on Macs with large displays, like the iMac, or the external 24” I use with my MacBook Pro). Magnet is my current weapon of choice in this area, and it’s the next thing I download.

Other Apps

With the foundation in place, I start going through my list of purchased apps in the Mac App Store and downloading deciding for each one whether I wanted it on that particular Mac. Mostly this is a simple process of asking myself “how likely am I to need this app”. I did run into a few tricky situations where I had a Mac App Store version of an app, but then had a newer version outside the App Store (either because the developer stopped offering it in the App Store, or because I was able to get upgrade pricing by using the non-app store version). There were a couple of instances where I downloaded the old version from the App Store, then realized that I had a license for a newer, non-app store version.5

After getting the App Store downloads going, I brought up 1Password and started going through the software licenses I have stored there. If I want an app on this machine I’ll go to the developer website and download the app from there.

Most of my apps are either in the App Store or have a license in 1Password. The trickier ones to remember are those that aren’t in either of those places. These are mostly free utilities of various types, or apps that go with particular pieces of hardware like my Drobo or ScanSnap.

Syncing Data

The advent of cloud services has made setting a computer up from scratch much easier than it was in the past. Most of my data automatically gets synced over to my new machine without much action on my part.

The vast majority of my data lives in Dropbox, that’s taken care of already. I keep my photo library in iCloud, but I like having a local copy on my machine. I’ll launch the Photos app and tell it to start downloading my pictures. I keep a few documents for my OmniGroup applications in their OmniPresence cloud storage system, so I’ll download the OmniPresence client and get those synced over.

There is some data I prefer not to keep in the cloud (tax returns and the like). I fire up my old Mac or connect a clone backup of the old hard drive and copy these things over from my Documents folder.

The tricky bit are the important bits of data that don’t live in the cloud or in my Documents folder. Things like Hazel actions and Automator scripts. Hazel in particular is a bit tricky since it really prefers that you export your actions on the old computer and then import them on the new one. When the old Hazel installation just got paved over that’s kind of hard. In one instance I ended up booting my MacBook Pro from a clone backup6 so I could launch Hazel and export all my actions.

Backing Up

Given how important my backups were when I had to unexpectedly repave my Mac mini, getting things backed up is a priority. Going through my whole backup strategy is an article in and of itself, but I’ll lay out my backup priorities with a newly set-up Mac.

Step one is Time Machine. This is the easy button when it comes to backing up a Mac and it’s a good first step.

Next up is my online backup service, Backblaze. They have a neat feature called “inherit backup state” where you can just point your computer at an existing online backup. This is great if you have lots of data already backed up in the cloud. Unfortunately, I found it a bit hit or miss. When I reformatted my Mac mini it didn’t work, so I had to start the process of uploading all my data to the cloud from scratch.7 It did work fine on my MacBook Pro, and I was able to point the new iMac and the Mac mini’s backup.

The last step is to clone the hard drive to an external disk. The key here is not to immediately reuse the same disk you were backing up to before. Keep that one on the shelf for at least a couple of months. You’re likely to run in to some bit of data that you need and forgot to transfer over during this process. Hard drives are cheap, pick up a new one.

Conclusion

Setting up a Mac from scratch is a bit of work, but it’s a good thing to do every once in a while8. It’s an opportunity to get rid of some cruft and rethink how I do things. I figure if I do it right, the time I spend will pay dividends down the line.


  1. Reformat the hard drive and reinstall everything. 
  2. As is often the case, there’s a Mac Power Users episode that’s a good reference for this. 
  3. You do have backups, right? 
  4. Even after booting into the recovery partition and using disk utility from there I couldn’t get rid of the Boot Camp partition. 
  5. Mailplane and OmniOutliner 
  6. Running macOS off of an external spinning hard drive is sooo sloooow. I should look into getting an SSD for my clone backups. 
  7. Particularly painful given that the Mac mini has a couple of terabytes of external storage hooked up to it. 
  8. Three times in three months was a bit much though.